🔗 Share this article

When curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. However, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary honour.